by Ed Esslinger in The August 1996 RootesReview

Several weeks ago while working on my newest S-IV Alpine the weather turned hot and humid. I began to wonder how difficult and how cheaply and air conditioner could be added.

I don’t recommend using used parts, unless you have the tools and experience to test, clean and purge the used units. As I have air conditioned two Tigers with good results, and have the tools, I felt I could go the cheap way.
eds Air cond

The first step is to locate the parts. A trip to my local wrecking yard produced a Sanden SD 505 compressor and a 9 inch condenser fan from a 88 Chevy Sprint. The condenser would also fit (10” x 20″), but a defect in the mounting of the compressor on this car causes the discharge plumbing to ruin the compressor (I found this problem on two cars). The price for the compressor and fan was $30.

I still needed to find a small condenser that would fit in the front of the radiator. A trip to another wrecking yard found one and a small under-dash evaporator unit. Cost: $45.

I did the following to make the S-IV more reliable before I installed air:

  • Changed the electrical system and the tach to negative ground.
  • Changed the radiator core to a 3-core heavy duty type.
  • Installed a 165 degree thermostat.
  • Installed a Weber-type carb.
  • Installed a Ford alternator and regulator.

ed's air cond 2Then, I made the following changes to install air:

  1. Relocated the brake servo to the same location as on a Tiger.
  2. Installed an electric fuel pump.
  3. Had an additional belt pulley welded to the water pump pulley.
  4. Fabricated and installed a fuel pump block-off plate.
  5. Fabricated compressor mounting brackets. The front compressor bracket mounts on the front engine mounting plate. The rear (compressor) bracket (mounts) to the fuel pump studs and to the upper right oil filter base.

Connecting the system is a standard setup. I added a pressure switch (not cheap $40) to turn on the condenser fan when needed. Could save this money by having the fan run all the time when the air is on. The compressor and the water pump are (both) driven by the crankshaft pulley while the alternator is driven by the additional water pump pulley. Watch for clearance of the fan belt under the water pump outlet and lower radiator hose.
ed's air cond 3

This setup will cause the engine temp to run 10-to-20 degrees above what it was. At 95+ my car is running 190 degrees with no problems. Good luck and stay cool.

Comments (2)

T28 I installed a Heat and A/c unit (VintageAir) in y ’67 Commodore Blue SV Alpine several years ago. I did not know of Ed’s neat operation at the time.

The Vintage air unit had both capabilities of heating ad cooling so I could remove the Heater Coil (Radiator) and the Blower Fan assembly making room where needed most.

I planned early on in the restoration project to install the A/C. I did a complete restoration with the Alpine on a rotisserie (Plans are available for the asking). During the restoration I used Lizard Skin for deadening and eliminating heat and I also added Dynamat to the entire inside of the car for a more than adequate sound deadening and reduction in heat problems. I have a complete list of the individual pieces I bought for the conversion/installation. I did make the A/C Compressor Mounting Bracket. And can easily duplicate.

My compressor came from a ’94-95 Suzuki Sumira (spelling)? My condenser was new 10x19x3/4 fit very snug in front of the stock radiator ( I did have it recored with three tube and 17 fins per inch. Cooed nicely,especially with the HardTop.

I have since installed a 2.8 V6 Ford engine using my designed components including a “New” Air Compressor Bracket for the V6. Anyone interested in pieces, parts, or other stuff I used just need to ask: ti*******@gm***.com

T28 Additional comments on the A/C in an Alpine

HEAT & AIR CONDITIONING for ’67 Sunbeam Alpine May 21, 2012.

1. Air Condition Condenser
Purchased from: Greenwood Auto Parts (Tony)
Global Parts Distributors, LLC.
Part Number: 9011234
Dimensions: ½”x10 ½”x 22”

2. Air Compressor: DENSO 10P08E or IOP08E
047200 – 6021
1 1 M 4384
Leakage Test:
High Side 30kg/cm2
Low Side 15kg/cm2
Made in Japan
REMOVED FROM: SUZUKI (Sidekick)? Date 01/93 VIIN: 2CNBE18U8P6917188

3. Evaporator: Vintage Air unit with Heat and Air capability. (Johnny Ingle).

4. Pulleys:
One (1) ’67 Alpine water pump/fan blade pulley utilized.
One (1) Removed from a Ford Pickup (Nick). Modified by cutting out the center, then welded. (Ingle). Balanced (Wayne – Greenwood Auto Parts)

5. Belts: One (1) V-Belt (Not Standard) Used Gates 7400 (11A1015) 13/32”x40-5/8”
OC 10mm x 1031 mm OC for the Alternator.
One (1) Dayco Poly Rib 5040295 (4PK0750) I believe it measured 680mm on the Belt Tool that is utilized to determine length for the A/C Compressor. NOTE: the “750” in the 4PK0750 number denotes the “outside” dia…. I think!

6. Compressor Bracket (s): Johnny Ingle fabricated these specifically for my ’67 Series
V engine. They should work adequately for any Alpine 4 cylinder engine.

7. Hose (s):
a. Air Conditioning:
# 6 Hose Length Approximately 35” from Condenser to Dryer; 2 ½” from Dryer
to Firewall. Then 19” from Firewall to Evaporator.
# 8 Hose Length Approximately 9” From Compressor to Condenser.
#10 Hose Length Approximately 12’ Under Dash from Evaporator to Firewall.
Then 28” from firewall to Compressor.
b. Hot Water:
GATES Part Number 19154, Molded Heater Hose 5/8”x53 3/16”. Applicable to:
Ford Focus 2000 thru 2004.
GATES Part Number 19235, Molded Heater Hose 5/8”x ?. Applicable to: Grand
Cherokee 1999 thru 2004.

Air Conditioning:
# 6: Four (4) Beadlock 90 degree FM-O’Ring FTG
One (1) Beadlock 45 degree FM-O’Ring FTG
One (1) Beadlock Bulkhead 90 degree M-O’Ring FTG
#8: One (1) BeadLock -FTG 135 degree FM-O’Ring w/134 Port
One (1) Beadlock 90 degree FM-O’Ring FTG
One (1) Beadlock 90 degree both ends.
#10: Two (2) Beadlock 90 degree FM-O’Ring FTG
One (1) Beadlock Bulkhead 90 degree M-O’Ring FTG
One (1) Beadlock 90 degree both ends.

9. Duct (s): Not yet finalized.

10. Controls: Utilized Alpine controls: fabricated push/pull cable for hot water Heater cutoff valve. Difficult problem with the Control Cable for turning on/off the heater valve. Made a longer cable and housing unit. Utilized two of the Control units for the Car/Screen unit because of the Cold/Warm/Hot Control unit being backwards for my valve and its’ mounted location.

11. Hot Water: Heater Valve
Purchased from Greenwood Auto Parts. Mfg: Cooling Depot Part # 74628
1801 Waters Ridge Drive, Lewisville, Texas 75057

12. FILTER DRIER: Cooling Depot # 33321 from Greenwood Auto Parts – Carl or Tony.

OTHER: Freon: Took about 2 lbs? No leaks and cools nicely!

Leave a Reply