by Jim Anderson in the September 2004 RootesReview

Several times recently, my Series V Alpine trunk (boot) lock would stick on the “in” position, which would mean that the lid wouldn’t stay closed.

I went to several mechanics to see if they had any solution and with a lot of lubricants and jiggling, the button would come out. And then it would happen again. I had the best lubricated, non-working trunk lock in the club.

So, I finally ordered a replacement part from Gary Schotland. When I compared the one I ordered with the one I took out of my car I had a Eureka moment. Rootes, I suppose because there are variances in their manufacturing methods, made the operating lock mechanism adjustable. Mine was adjusted by some previous owner to be too short. As a result, I suppose depending on the temperature or the force I used, the key cylinder would go too far and pop out of its socket. Its “ears,” the projecting sides meant to keep it in place, would then rotate slightly and not go back into their slots. Result: the trunk would not close.

Solution: if the trunk button sticks down, try to manipulate it with the key to get the cylinder back in place. It’s a matter of rotation, not force or lubrication. Once that is done and the trunk is open, increase the effective length of the device by taking off the locking mechanism (very simple) and extending the striker that releases the trunk holder by perhaps 1/2 inch. There is a simple lock-nut arrangement. About 3/4 of an inch from base to the top of the pall seems just about right. It’s a 30-minute job. John Logan tells me that this should work for all Tigers and Alpines

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