May 15, 2005 at 2:59 am #56440
How do you remove the engine- take it out of the top or drop it out of the bottom? B&KDan
May 16, 2005 at 3:31 am #59251Bob HokansonParticipant
After switching to a 5spd, the only way I can remove the engine is from the bottom… and it’s easier anyway.
June 5, 2005 at 3:29 pm #59346
Bottom is defenetly easier, can remove engine/tranny together…suspension comes off easily….but reinstalling a bit tight….recommend the adj tilt mechanism for the engine hoist… Jc Whitney has them…Mike in Florida
November 17, 2006 at 2:15 pm #60984Douglas PruittParticipant
The way many of us do it doesn’t use an engine hoist, hood removal or leak transmission lube. Remover the radiator, throttle cable and engine wires. Jack up the front of the car and put jack stands behind the front wheels. Remove the drive shaft and front crossmember (remember to remover the brake line). Remover the speedometer cable and ground strap on the clutch slave cylinder. Unbolt the slave cylinder and move to the side with a wire or bungee. Unbolt the transmission crossmember. Place a lowered floor jack under the transmission. Lower the car so that the engine rest on a dolly. Unbolt the engine mounts and raise the car leaving the engine on the dolly. Jack up the transmission enough to clear and pull the engine forward.
Did I forget anything?
November 17, 2006 at 2:19 pm #60985Douglas PruittParticipant
Of course the exhaust has to be removed. Stock exhaust manifolds can be left on the engine but headers have to be removed before removing the engine.
Also remove the starter wire and the generator ground wire.
What else did I forget?
November 18, 2006 at 9:18 pm #60989
To be on the safe side I’d make sure the battery is also disconnected.
November 19, 2006 at 2:10 am #60990
Just finish pulling motor and trans in my friends 66 Tiger that has my old 331ci and Auto. trans. the servo went out in trans,so we had a new servo & clutches put in seems to be fine now. I R&R it in about 8-10 hrs that’s taking it out the bottom and I’m doing by myself so I don’t get into a big rush, plus I’m getting old.
So now that Tiger is up and running, I’m pulling the Motor & Trans out of mine next week going to check out motor take heads off and check bearings. I’m going to work on putting some 2" Hooker Headers on and I’m going to try a Power glide trans. The C-4 trans that I’m using are not holding up and I don’t have the money to buy a high dollar C-4.
My wife just shakes her head and asks if its ever going to be done. 🙄
November 19, 2006 at 8:45 pm #60991
Tell her it will be done when she stops buying clothes and jewelry.
That works with my wife of 36 years.
April 7, 2010 at 10:43 am #63460
Hi all. I have my really pretty, rebuilt 289 engine sitting on a stand near my car. I plan to remove the original 260 and close ratio transmission and install the fresh Mk2 289 with an original Mk2 wide ratio transmission. In planning this job, I can’t understand what is gained by removing the engine from the bottom. I mean, using an engine hoist and removing the engine and transmission as a unit as described in the workshop manual seems no more difficult, especially when considering that all the ancillaries will still have to be removed either way, to include my headers, but from the top, the crossmember can remain in place. I guess the oil dripping from the transmission is pretty bad, but that seems to be the main problem. What am I not understanding? Thanks for the info!
April 9, 2010 at 4:19 pm #63461
There are several aspects at work:
A stock engine/trans combination (i.e. stock heads, valve covers, and oil pan, and toploader or T-10 transmission) can be installed or removed from the top. My Canton road-race oil pan comes close enough to the crossmember, and it’s deeper by enough, that you can’t tilt or lift the engine/trans combination such that the oil pan will clear the crossmember on the way out. Some aluminum heads are taller than OEM iron heads, and this in combination with oversize valve covers might also cause problems. So depending on your engine setup the ability to go in and out the top could be a non-starter.
Another thing is that the engine/transmission combo is over five feet long, and it has to come out of the car at about a 60 degree angle. This means that you need at least four feet of headroom above the car, plus room for the hoist chain and arm. Assuming you start with at least the nose of the car jacked up, you may need more than eight feet of headroom, floor to ceiling, and some garages don’t have that much (or that’s all they have).
A last thing is the creep factor of pulling a 500 pound (or more) assembly that high in the air above your car, supported by a marginally stable cherrypicker. On mine, the lateral wheel spacing is only about five feet at the rear, and about four feet at the front.
April 10, 2010 at 12:58 am #63462
When removing the engine from the bottom you don’t have to remove the hood
Even if you have predrilled 1/8th holes in the hood and hinges you still have to play around a bit when puttin it back on
And yes with the T5 tranny it is best to remove from the bottom.I would not do it any other way.
April 15, 2010 at 12:14 am #63469Joel & Karen GriffinParticipant
Remove it from the bottom easiest way, and the next time I do it I’ll make the mod to the X so the whole mess will drop out the bottom! without removing the crossmember!
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