- This topic has 15 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated December 13, 2005 at 11:10 pm by
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Not often I need to ask a question but here goes.
The starter worked fine when the engine was on the stand but I do think it has a short.
With a 302 and headers has anyone have an easy way to remove the starter without loosening the headers?
2nd question is there a narrower starter that fits that eliminates this problem?
With the tight clearances I now have it would be a job and ahalf.It almost looks as it would be quicker to drop the oil pan for me.
8) sunny but this makes for a little cloud in the shop -
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Chuck
Did you double check your ground strap from the motor before pulling out the starter? Although a short is possible, a faulty ground can also appear especially if the bench test was successful. (been there DOH!)
Barry
That is a good link, time to get out a credit card. Has anybody tried a modern/pygmy starter for the small block?
Tigger
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quote Tigger:Chuck
Did you double check your ground strap from the motor before pulling out the starter? Although a short is possible, a faulty ground can also appear especially if the bench test was successful. (been there DOH!)
Barry
That is a good link, time to get out a credit card. Has anybody tried a modern/pygmy starter for the small block?
Tigger
Barry
That is the very first thing I thought of but it was only sparking with direct current
I even grounded the starter direct.I pulled it out but haven’t removed the pan as yet.Again grounded direct and full 13.2 volts with the same results.
I have ordered a starter of Ebay as there are some good buys for this style of starter. -
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quote Fast Tiger:I put a late model mini starter on my motor and it clears the headers and is easy to get to.
It does’nt use the stock solenoid, because its mounted on top of the starter so it has to be wired in, but really no big dealThey are like 3 inches in diameter and about 6.5 inches long I’m led to believe.It should make remove and replace easy with the headers in place.
Wiring that will be a snap.Just put the starter wire to the battery side and the solenoid wire to the starter side.
8) Sunny but pretty cool -
Chuck
When your new starter arrives, could you toss her on the bathroom scales for a giggle?? 😆 . The original tips in at 15lbs. a little bit heavier than necessary.
Easier Accessibility, Higher Torque, Less Weight. These all sound great for the Tiger’s FUNction. Reliability is all that’s unknown, lets hope it is American made and not imported from China! 😉
Tigger
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quote Tigger:Chuck
When your new starter arrives, could you toss her on the bathroom scales for a giggle?? 😆 . The original tips in at 15lbs. a little bit heavier than necessary.
Easier Accessibility, Higher Torque, Less Weight. These all sound great for the Tiger’s FUNction. Reliability is all that’s unknown, lets hope it is American made and not imported from China! 😉
Tigger
Can do and will do just for the fun of it
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I got my starter.Weight is 7.25 pounds.However I think John made a mistake as my old starter is 12.5 pound.I still have a problem as it almost gets by the headers.On the 302 I have stage 2 heads(bigger and maybe a bit different???) with the split sump oil pan.I removed all the pan bolts except the 2 front ones that I loosened and was able to get it in.The mounting flange is the same as stock.I think if it needs to come out the oil pan will have a new molded dimple very quickly.
8) But what the heck its still sunny -
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quote V6 JOSE:Chuck,
Be careful with the dimpling, because the crank counterweights are pretty close to the pan to begin with. You sure don’t want to have to remove the engine again to correct too big a dimple.
Jose 😀
Jose
The dimple would probably be no more than 1/4 inch.It was that close This would be on the side of the pan and seeing the mounting flange is about 1 inch wide there will not be a problem.
Sure good to see how sharp you are.You must be doing well.
8) may life be sunny -
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