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    • #56386

      This tip concerns rust and paint removal. I have been using the method
      outlined at the link:
      http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm lately
      in the restoration of some of my under hood ancillary items, such as the
      heater, wiper motor/gear, radiator shroud, and various brackets. These
      items have a combination of the original black paint and surface rust.
      My goal was to remove the original paint and the rust and then repaint
      the items for reinstallation. I have found this ‘electrolytic
      de-rusting method’ to be very effective – it is non-toxic, safe and does
      not hurt un-rusted metal. Also, as an added bonus, it completely strips
      the original paint back to bare metal. It has turned what I thought
      would be a long, terribly messy job into a pleasure. Tip courtesy of Tom Wiencek

    • #58992

      I used this method on a number of parts, worked quite well.

    • #58994

      Thanks Jim, I will try it. Also you put me onto something! I happen to have as 1941 3/4 long bed Chevy truck. However I lost the interest somewhat due to SUNBEAMS!
      Robert

    • #59068
      jumpinjan
      Participant

      This is the technique that “Ready-strip” metal cleaning facilities use. It removes the rust, but I don’t think it removes the paint. How can it? I think what you are experiencing is the thin, black paint the factory applied , which is now flaking off anyway. The commercial strippers remove the grease & paint through other means first, then the part goes into the derusting tank.

    • #59071

      Well Jan, for whatever reason, all the paint and junk floats off leaving you a nice clean rustfree part. I’m no chemist so I don’t know why, I just know it does.
      Honestly though I preffer my blasting cabinet, but for parts such as the oil pan, while taking some time, cleaned ALL the gunk from inside and out. Plus it’s much cheaper. I just used one of those rubbermaid storage bins, a 12 volt battery charger and “Arm and Hammer” washing soda.
      Give it a try, you just may be surprised.

    • #63137

      The described method using the car battery does work, although amaturish. It is not near the same strength as the professional redistrip program though. The battery and baking soda method still leaves black ore in the pits, great for loose and surface corrosion only.IMHO
      For those wanting to remove ALL of the rust down to the white metal go purchase some Sani-Flush crystals and grab a plastic container for the brewing process.
      First and foremost, read the safety precautions ❗ Second, grab some rubber Mittens 😆
      This has been a much Quicker and more Thorough process for the smaller percentage of perfectionists in the Hobby. I do not recommend you do this indoors, although it is designed for the hosehold toilet bowl cleaning. It is best to use outdoors and DO NOT breath the fumes released from this process. The instructions will reveal the chemical which is obviously acid!
      Experiment with a small amount and don’t waste the crystals on a small part in a big bucket. If you put too much Sani in the broth it will eat eat away at delicate components so work your way up in the concentration levels. Grab yourself a brass bristled wire brush for the nooks and crannies and stay away from wire brushes unless they are used and on the way to the trash 😛 When you are done with the Witch’s brew you may flush it down the Drain.
      Remember Boys and Girls to Play Safe!

      Rob Martel

      http://www.robmartel.com

    • #63194

      I have been doing electrolytic rust and paint removal of Tiger parts for three years. The electrolytic process will take off any factory paint finish and all rust. The only paint that does not come off with this process is wrinkle paint. Maybe because it’s so thick. There are several good web sites with instructions. Rather than doubt that it takes off paint, why don’t you try it.

    • #64264
      warren-g
      Participant

      Used the system on motorcycle tanks after balking at the cost of Evaporust from Harbor freight. Tried a gel product for the interior of the heater core box on the Beam. Think it is similar to the Evaporust with a food grade thickener. Worked very well but left the black pits. Warren in So Cal.

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