Viewing 15 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • #57545
      sivallan
      Member

      http://s826.photobucket.com/albums/zz18 … er%20Mk1a/

      As requested, a few happy snaps of my new Sunbeam.

      The car is on stands for review and repair. It was in storage from 1982 until a few weeks ago.

      The car has 53,000 "original" miles per it’s log book. I am the second owner, not counting the gentleman who stored the car then gained title and sold to me.

      So far I have rebuilt all the brakes but am waiting on clutch and brake master cylinders that may be lost in the mail from Holland.

      I swapped the plugs, wires, cap and rotor and installed a Pertronics Ignitor, and also hooked up a replacement 2 bbl Motorcraft model 2150 carb.

      The wood fell off the steering wheel so the wheel was replaced.

      All exterior light lenses were broken and are replaced.

      The car had 70’s era French headlights that work – Marchal – scarce I think but I put on a set by Sylvania and will probably sell or trade the other ones.

      Original horns are gone but replacement air horns sounds fine.

      Both boots on the steering rack are broken and must be replaced.

      The soft top rotted long ago; the hardtop is in decent condition for a rebuild.

      The car was sold originally to a guy in Oklahoma which is where I bought it. It is a very early Mk 1a with round corner boot and Sunbeam 260 badges.

      It has been TAC’ed.

      It has the following options, but I don’t know if they are LAT or merely comparable:
      –traction bars;
      –6 bladed fan
      –chrome air cleaner housing and oil filler cap
      –also per the Book of Norman it has an uprated rear axle.

      The car has glass-packs dating back to when it went into storage or before — the sound is a blast from the past.

      Overall the car is very original with very little rust and a straight body excepting one small ding in the left front fender, about silver dollar sized.

      I look forward to driving it soon maybe. Probably other issues will appear while it is being sorted.

      I had a Mk 1 Tiger in the early 70’s so it’s been a long wait to get behind a Tiger wheel again.

      I am building a set of reference books but probably will have more than a few questions 🙂

      An SAOCA forum member made this car known and I am grateful for that posting and that I could get to Oklahoma to see it quickly.

    • #63571
      gtsmrt
      Member

      Hi Allan,

      Welcome to the world of Tiger’s. I know I’m a little late posting, but nice looking Tiger and I hope everything is going well with it.

      Regards, Robin.

    • #63572
      sivallan
      Member

      Thanks, Robin.

      I hope to do some driving soon, once I get a carb issue sorted. The hot
      air choke failed and hopefully that’s all but it went to a shop for
      analysis and repair.

    • #63573
      gtsmrt
      Member

      Hi Allan,
      Do you plan on just using the Tiger as a cruiser or are you planning some competition work? Sounds like you have a bought well. Good luck with the repairs and hope it’s on the road very soon.
      Regards, Robin.

    • #63574
      sivallan
      Member

      Hi Robin,

      I hope to rally the car but nothing too serious; mainly it’s intended to be a
      cruiser. For now it will remain in the stock 2 bbl setup although I obtained
      an Eldebrock F4B manifold for potential future use.

      Allan

    • #63576
      Jeff Nichols
      Participant

      Two things will improve the drivabilty immensly. 1 – install a Pertronics ignition to replace the points and condenser. 2- replace the 2bl carb and manifold with the F4B manifold and Edelbrock 4bl carb with electric choke. I did those shortly after I bought my Tiger and the engine response was fantastic. With the 2bl the engine would stop pulling after 3000rpm. With the 4bl the engine pulled all the way to the redline. The Pertronics eliminates having to set the points gap which always seems to change no matter how well you did it in the first place. Plus you don’t get points bounce in the upper rpm range.

    • #63577
      sivallan
      Member

      Thanks,

      I did replace the points as you suggested; now to look for an eldebrock 4 bbl
      with electric choke – a small one that won’t drink too much :).

      I probably won’t change the carb and manifold until this winter though; the summer
      is made for driving and in this case for sorting the car to ensure its reliable operation.

      Allan

    • #63580
      anonymous
      Member

      Allan-

      I have an Edelbrock 1404 or 1405 (whichever has the manual choke) on my stock 260 MKI. I never use the choke, at least not in the warm weather driving I do, and have not had to toy with the idle settings since I put it on the car 17 years ago.

      Very good acceleration and torgue through all the gears. Dyno tested a few years ago, showing a maximum 135 HP at the rear wheels and a consistent 200 lb-ft of torque.

      Fred Baum

    • #63581
      sivallan
      Member

      Thanks Fred,

      I lean toward a manual choke too and am used to the manual choke used for my Alpine’s twin downdraft Zeniths.

      What do you guesstimate is the BHP at the flywheel?

      The BON mentions a gain of 40 horses with the F4b setup, so maybe
      approx. 200 at the flywheel translates to about 135 at the rear wheels?

      Allan

    • #63582
      anonymous
      Member

      Allan-

      I usually figure about a 70% loss between the flywheel and the rear wheels, so 200 at the flywheel sounds about right.

      By the way, you can drill holes in the counterweights for the secondaries and get them to react faster. About 5/16" diameter holes are a good starting point.

      The nice thing about these carbs is that they are easy to work on and easy to take apart without damaging gaskets and seals. Jet changes are really simple as well.

      Fred

    • #63594
      Jeff Nichols
      Participant

      "The BON mentions a gain of 40 horses with the F4b setup, so maybe
      approx. 200 at the flywheel translates to about 135 at the rear wheels?"

      A Tiger email lister said he was able to get 278HP out of a 260 by using 4bl carb, high rise manifold and street roller cam ( also roller rockers) with screw in studs (revs up to 7000rpm). By the way, Edelbrock electric choke carb and F4B manifold. He may have been able to get 10 – 15 HP more if he used a current Edelbrock high rise like the RPM manifold.

      I recently built a 260 with street roller cam, roller rockers, roller timing chain, F4B, Edelbrock carb, and heads with porting and slightly larger than stock valves. My goal is 275 – 280HP.

    • #63595
      anonymous
      Member

      Correction to my last post on the HP subject.

      I said a 70% loss from the flywheel to the reasr wheels. It should have said a 30% loss.
      Fred Baum

    • #63596
      sivallan
      Member

      M Edelbrock F4B manifold has the center piece between below pair of "carburetor barrels" lowered a bit.

      I read that this will add 6 or 7 BHP…

      When installing the carb, does the spacer also need to have the center section removed or does the spacer configuration make no difference?

      Allan

    • #63599
      Jeff Nichols
      Participant

      "Edelbrock F4B manifold has the center piece between below pair of "carburetor barrels" lowered a bit.
      I read that this will add 6 or 7 BHP…
      When installing the carb, does the spacer also need to have the center section removed or does the spacer configuration make no difference?"

      The manifold is split in half by the divider and is called a dual plane manifold. The reason for the two plane was to have each half feed half of the intake ports for the engine. This is so intake pulses from one cylinder do not interfere with intake pulses from the next firing cylinder which is on the opposite side of the engine. This is good for lower engine RPM idle and throttle response. However, at high RPM it was found that cutting a notch in the plenum divider increased HP in the upper RPM range by equalizing intake pulse pressure on both sides of the engine.

      No, the spacer does not need a notch to match the divider.

    • #63600
      gtsmrt
      Member

      Hi Allan,

      I had my Tiger on the Dyno with the stock two barrel setup which produced 128Hp at the rear wheels. When I installed a Weiand four barrel intake manifold, Edelbrock carby and Electronic distributor I had it re-tested and was producing 150Hp at the rear wheels. Torque dropped slightly, but I had a much flatter torque curve. I have also fitted an exhaust balance pipe since, but don’t know if this has added anything.

      Regards, Robin.

    • #63601

      The balance tube or crossover pipe needs to be placed properly.Usually just behind the header collector outlet.You want it close to the hot spot.This works on exahust pulsing and can add on a ford 289 a few extra HP.I was told by the shop that built my engines maybe as much as 7 to 10 HP
      This shop was a noted builder of race engines.

Viewing 15 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.