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    • #57186

      How well do you think they were working for me??… 🙄
      I have a set of Dale’s rear springs on their way to me. I will pull the panhard rod too when I install them.

      I will be having the ring and pinion replaced next month. I just noticed that my exhaust system is welded from down-tube to the exhaust tips. I have no idea how to get the rear axle out without cutting the exhaust. I figure if I disconnect the down-tubes and all of the hangers, I might be able to move the exhaust around enough to get he axle out. I am sure lots of strong language will be required.

    • #62237
      Jeff Nichols

      I have a set of Dale’s springs and you will not have a problem with back axel hop. Dale’s springs are stiffer than stock and have a extra half leaf extending from the fron eye spring to control axel hop. You may want to look at the frame where the front T.M. are welded. With the bars bent you may have a problem with frame cracking around the front sprint attachment.

    • #62239

      OK… i have heard Dales springs will stop axel tramp.. I have a set iof his rears n my car.. Just last night i tried a more spirited getaway.. 2000rpm on bard and slipped it a little then foot down.. screah.. hop… oh well.. TMs will be going on. How many HP arel Dakes springs meant to tame?

    • #62242
      Jeff Nichols

      On my mostly stock 260 axel tramp was eliminated. What size is your engine, 302? TM’s will surely stop axel hop but they introduce other problems. Look at the photo to see one problem. Another is suspension binding because the arc the TM’ s move is not the same as the arc the axel moves. Look at the photo to see what happens when the two arcs intersect. Bolt on TM’s are probably your best choice. Those clamp on to the spring before the front spring eye and bolt to the u – bolts like the weld on type. The ride is supposed to be "choppy" from what I have heard from people who have used them.

    • #62244


      The car has a ford motorsports 302 (345bhp) I have a set of bolt on TM’s (actually they have been made by a local member to the original design, but beefed up a little in material and they have been sleeved at the pivot so the bushes dont bind like the originals) I am hoping this cures the tramp (though only an issue if you are being silly) i am told by some that it stiffens the rear a little, but we will see how it goes.

    • #62246

      here are some pics of the bars i am going to fit:

      click for larger image

    • #62247

      I have the bolt on lakewood bars.They work fine and the ride is not choppy.On the Lister I had to remove a bit off the top of the rubber bumper.On the 62 I had no problem.Easy to put on and easy to remove. When I first put the lister on the road and opened it up the first time the front came up and the rear sank .The fender flange actually did scrape the tire and left a faint mark.After adding the bars you could feel the rear wanting to drop but then feel it raise as the bars came into play.
      I do not think Tigers or Algers should be with out some kind of traction bars.As many of us want that extra power we must be sure anything we can do to make the car safer is mandatory
      Thats my .50 cents worth.Thats what it takes to put a few drops of gas in our cars today

    • #62249
      Bob Hokanson

      I have the stiff old CAT springs with inverted main leaf and a Dan Walters torque arm which eliminates any trace of wheel hop but results in a very stiff ride and plenty of wheel spin. It works well in autocross (TTOD at Tigers United in Oregon last year) but I think a better system would be a modified Cal Track type bar like Jerry Porsch uses (1.40 sec 60 ft times!) You can see example of how they work at:

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