- This topic has 10 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated October 21, 2006 at 6:42 pm by
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Hello everyone – First time posting here. ( I’m sure not the last )
Can anyone shed some light on the installation procedure for installing headers. And, if there any recomended tips, other items I should replace at the time, special tools?
I just got the car today and noticed a dime-sized hole rusted into the drivers-side header. ( sounds kinda mean, lol )
One last thing, does anyone have any recomendations on what headers fit / work best?
Thanks in advance…
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I’m surprised you haven’t had any feedback on this. There are a ton of cars out there with headers and every one has a story. Mine have been on the car for so long that I can’t even remember where they came from. I hate to tell you, but the best way to install any headers is to remove the engine, test fit and modify the headers as needed on an engine stand (It is very unlikely that they will fit correctly no matter where you buy them). I drop the motor in the car and do one side at a time installing the headers and motor mounts very loosely until you every bolt started on both sides. This process usually involves vast quantities of beer and curse words. It also requires a couple of good friends to help.
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I got mine from CAT and they really are nice headers for our cars, but like any install of headers its a bitch to get them past the motor mounts and to tighten the header bolts.
Since I use a motor plate on my car the headers stay on the motor when it comes out and goes back in. I’m getting ready to tackle a new set of headers that are Hooker Super Comp that have 2" header pipes. I will have to cut them and put the smaller bolt pattern flange on them, but it should be worth the extra flow. 🙄 -
Hey thanks for the replies…
Yes pdq67, I was kind of surprised with the lack of feedback on this subject as well! Especially considering that it seems like most Tiger’s have aftermarket headers. All I’m requesting is some basic responses so that I can get an idea of what to do. ANY info is appreciated…
Regarding the profanity, I can only imagine the amount of cussing which will be required to complete an installation like this… My Mustangs were are gravy compared to what this looks like it going to be.
My intention with this is to NOT have to remove the motor if at all possible.( not sure I have the skill or know-how to tackle that one ) It appears that if I put the car up on stands I might be able to remove them from the bottom?
Does anyone know if that is even an option, or do they have to come out from the top?
Fasttiger – I think I’m going with the CAT headers as well. They cost a little more but judging from the description I got from Bill in the parts dept they sound like a quality item. ( unfortunately they are on back-order )
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The CAT headers are a good deal but may require some extra work to get them right. Mine needed some die grinder work and welding at the merged collector area. Also welded around the tubes at the bolt flange. The headers must be installed from the bottom, one side at a time. Put a jack under the oil pan with the car on stands first. Remove the old header bolts, engine mount nut, then the engine mount bracket bolts from the frame. It should all fall out (caution the brackets are heavy). To replace slide the headers in and place the mount bracket between the tubes and replace the mount nut. Next put the bracket bolts through the frame and get them tight. You can now put the two outside header flange bolts in and hang the gasket on them. Pop another cold one, and put the rest of the bolts in. Put all the bolts in loose first then tighten. I’ve done this procedure to many times to count. Takes about a 6 pack. Good Luck
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You remember Murphy’s Law? I decided a while back that Murphy owned a Tiger. My headers had been on the car for many years. I never thought I would have a problem re-installing them. It never occurred to me that changing heads would be that big of a deal so I never test fitted the headers before re-installing the engine. Wrong. I had bolt heads that wouldn’t get past surfaces they cleared easily the last time around. I finally bought some Allen head bolts to gain some space.
The jack under the engine method will work but if you have an engine hoist, you may want to use it instead. It lets you wiggle the engine side to side more safely. Those extra hands can then hold the engine to one side while you are trying to juggle motor mounts and header pipes on the other.
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Great description maicoh12. Thank you!
Seeing how I probably won’t have much help I’ll also see about renting an engine hoist like what pdq67 recommended. Sounds like that will make it a little easier moving the motor around while positioning the headers. The allen bolts make sense too…
One last question though. Considering that this is the first American / British car that I have owned, what would be more appropriate while working on the car – domestic or imported beer?
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I fully agree that you should test fit the headers before trying to install them. If you don’t have the engine on a stand but you do have a spare head bolt it to a work bench. Make sure all the bolts can be installed easily with little or no wrenching. Also install the spark plugs and see if you can get a socket on them. Mine would not fit over all the plugs until I dented the tubes, a little, with a socket and big hammer. After you are sure they will fit consider having them coated (Jethot?) if they aren’t already. Otherwise you might be replacing them in a few years.
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