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    • #57560

      Well, after coasting to the side of the road with a clogged fuel line (again), it’s time to take the fuel tanks and pipes to the radiator shop for cleaning and coating.
      1) how difficult is it to remove the tanks? Any tips i should know about?
      2) looking at the center pipe below the boot lid catch – does the catch mechanism have to be taken apart (i hope not)?
      3) should the whole gas cap assembly on the right wing be taken apart?

      Rob Perlis (rootesrob)
      ’66 Alpine (black w/ tartan tan tonneau cover)

    • #63557

      To remove the tanks after taking out the pressed board panels,
      1 There are 2 bolts going in from the front that you’ll locate inside the rear wheel well to remove.
      2 You’ll need to remove the brace on the rear of the tanks, both from the tanks and the body to make it easier.
      3 Remove the gas cap from the car, 4 screws visible when open and a wire hose clamp on the rubber neck of the r/h tank. Also remove the rubber neck from the tank.
      4 Loosen the clamps on the short hoses at the bottom of the tanks and slide them forward on the connector elbows, may take some work if they’ve not been removed since the car was built. You’ll need a long screwdriver for the clamps, can be kind of awkward to reach.
      5 Tanks will need to be wiggled around to remove, helps if you disconnect the trunk lid support arms and rotate them so that the spring hook is out of the way.
      6 Removing the crossover pipe does require removing the trunk latch, cover comes off with 4 bolts, latch assembly has 4 either bolts or screws, I don’t recall off the top of my head, then pulls out. Crossover has 2 bolts through the rear valance from the bottom, remove them while unhooking the fuel line. You’ll probably need to remove the crossover elbows before the pipe will move enough to come out.
      Reinstall is the reverse of the steps, but secure the tanks in place before the crossover as I find it easier to have the crossover loose as I hook everything up so there’s some movement allowed when sliding the short hoses on.

      You might also want to add a ground wire from each taillight to the rear tank support while you’re reassemblying, easy to do with just a length of wire with a ring on each end, one one the tank support and one on the upper or lower post of the taillamp. Works better than an iffy ground to the body through the post touching a bare spot..

    • #63604

      Mike, thanks for responding to my post!! Well, a friend and I pulled the tanks today – a bit fiddly but not too bad – wow!!!! Couldn’t believe all the loose paint in the tanks – I’m shocked that the car ran at all. Ordered all the hoses and gaskets from SS – one question though…

      How do you remove the fuel sending unit?

      I remember reading about it somewhere, but can’t find it… Thanks.

    • #63606

      It has been 15 years since I last changed the gasket under a sending unit but if I remember correctly it is just a twist lock. I seem to remember using a drift pin to knock a tab to make the unit turn slightly. (on the other hand it could have been some other car!)
      Hopefully somebody else can chime in.

      However, if you do get it out definitely change the gasket under the sending unit and clean well with a carb cleaner to get the varnish off if there is any.


    • #63608

      Thanks Steve,
      Yeah, it’s a twist lock – a light tap with a flat-head screwdriver and rubber mallet turned it easily.
      Dropped off the tanks and the three connecting tubes to a local radiator shop (they do a lot of motorcycle tanks). Should be cleaned and coated by next week – assembly should be easier, the rubber hoses and gaskets arrived, and hope to have it all buttoned up for the Taste of Britain car show (Lancaster, PA) on August 22nd.

      Black "66 Series V

    • #63609

      If you don’t want to go to the radiator shop, Eastwood products make a tank sealer. … 2-oz.html#

      I had used it years ago on my Tiger and have had no problems. I did have the tanks
      tank dunked before hand so I knew they were clean. Don’t think I’d trust my radiator
      shop with my gas tanks, had hard enough time to get them to fix the radiator.

    • #63616


      I assume that the cross-over pipe is metal. Is the cross-over pipe coated on the inside the same as the tanks?

      Thanks, Robin.

    • #63617

      Hi Robin,

      Yes, the three cross-over pipes are metal, and i had them coated as well – it was only another $48.00 (the whole bill w/ tax was only $266.00 – cleaning and coating).


    • #63618
      quote rootesrob:

      Hi Robin,

      Yes, the three cross-over pipes are metal, and i had them coated as well – it was only another $48.00 (the whole bill w/ tax was only $266.00 – cleaning and coating).


      Hi Rob,

      Thanks for the reply. I had a feeling it was, I just wanted to confirm it was without removing it.

      Regards, Robin.

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