Viewing 8 reply threads
  • Author
    • #56478

      First off, I want to say high as I am a newbie here.
      I used the search portion and did not find anything that matched what I am asking. I have also tried other forums and received little information regarding my question. Soooooooo, my block question is this.
      What, if any, modifications or issues will I run into by changing from the stock 5 bolt block and bellhousing, to a 6 bolt block and bell housing. I am mostly concerned with outside physical dimentions as I do not wish to cut my Tiger. Bolt on mods are all over this thing, but they can be easily removed if desired. As my car stands it is a 1966 Mk1A running a 1965
      HI-PO 289 with some aftermarket mods. Thanks for the help and have a great day.

    • #59462


      you must not cut anything on your tiger!
      You need another bracket for the clutch slave-cylinder.
      You must trill new holes in the bellhousing to fit your gearbox (if you have the narrowrange MK1 box) and you need a ring to fix the gearbox in the middle of the bellhousing (easy to make).
      Take your old frontcover and everything is fine.
      If you use a fordmotorsport balancer you must look if he does not drag at the frontcover, in my case I could modify the frontcover to make space for the balancer.


    • #59463

      Thanks Hans,
      Would you happen to have any part numbers, or vehicles used to donate parts, for things like the clutch fork?
      I notice your name says Tiger331, does this indicate that you have a 331 stroker in your Tiger? If so, please elaborate on that set up as this is the motor I am thinking of installing in place of the 289.

    • #59464

      Yes, I have a 331 Stroker in my Tiger 🙂

      I took a 5.0 HO Rollerblock.

      You need one of the following bellhousings :

      To fix you gearbox you must put a ring with outside 4 7/8″ and inside
      4 11/16″ to get the gearbox in the centre.

      I have bought a complete 331 Strokerkit from DSS-Racing, allready balanced.
      The only thing you have to look with this kit is, that the block must be decked to 8.19″ to get a good running engine.
      The heads are trick flow.
      The cam is a speed pro rollercam with the duration and lift like the trick flow stage 1 cam.
      Steel rollerrockers from cat and so on.
      The whole mix is a compromise between the money and the power, but for the tiger it is realllllllllllly enough.
      Weiand stealth intake, 600 Holley (I think the best would be a 670 Street avenger from holley. The 600 is a little small, but the fueleconomy is okay)


    • #59466

      Thanks for the info Hans.
      I was originally intending to build a stout 289, and I may still do it if I can find a few needed parts, but so far I have,
      Edelbrock Performer RPM AIR-GAP intake.
      Edelbrock alum water pump.
      AFR 165-COMP heads (these look fantastic)
      Mallory Unilight dist.
      Holley 570 Street Avenger carb
      Aviad road race oil pan.
      Hearders from Sunbeam Specialties (Jet Hot coated)
      Modified oil filter system.
      Slightly modified cooling system
      The car currently has a Sheiffer aluminum flywheel, SFI approved scatter shield, and McLeon HD clutch components.
      All this is part of the 5 bolt engine set up and other than the clutch components I can reuse all of it on the new motor.
      I think I can make about 380-425 HP with these parts on a 331 short block. That should be sufficient to get my heart pumping.
      I do worry about chassis damage, and cooling issues with the 331 motor as it just makes so MUCH more power than the original 260 V8.
      Have a great weekend Hans.

    • #59468

      You really have already good parts for a good engine.
      The AFR heads are really the best for there price.
      You could put the 331 kit in your 289 block if you like.
      The 5.0 HO has cylinderwalls with a length of 13cm.
      I have seen two 289 blocks whitch have the same lenght.
      The mare, that you can not build a stroker with a 289 block is not correct.
      You must messure your cylinderwalls to check this out, if the are 13cm long, you can stroke the block.
      I do not have any problem with the body of my car. Mine is a groundup restored and really solid car. If yours also, dont worry about the body.
      You are right, the cooling is a problem if you use your power all the time.
      With cruising speed or normal traffic speed I have no temperature problems. But I will put spacers under the hood to lift it in the back.
      This helps the engine really mutch.
      I would not intend to make so much power. My goal is to get round about
      300 DIN PS ( 325 to 350 HP I think) but power from idle.
      Next week I go on the dyno, the power from idle, I reallly have :-)))))).
      The engine is like my old 260 in his character, only twice.
      Have a nice time and a nice ride.

    • #59654

      I have a stroker engine ( it is supposed to be a 347). I had it built out of my 5 bolt 289 so I do not have to change anything in my car to install. I had the 289 in the car in place of the 260 already. The new engine is still sitting on the garage floor waiting its turn for installation. I included aluminum heads, aluminum intake, Holley, and some other stuff but had it all painted to look stock. Hopefully only my local engine rebuilder will know for sure.


    • #59686

      Hi Cleandan

      I assume you have checked and are sure your 289 is a five bolt block. Most are six bolt. Here are my recommendations when going to a six bolt block.

      Install a good 302. The Ford iron head crate engine is cheaper and better than a rebuild.

      Newer, 302 engines, since 1968 I believe, require a flywheel and front damper for a 50 ounce out of balance so don’t use your 289 flywheel or front damper!

      If the new engine has a serpentine accessory drive, you must swap the front cover, pulleys, generator or alternator. You can use the 289 water pump but Tthis is a good time to install a new one. The water pump pulley-mounting flange will have to be pressed back to align the belt. The original crankshaft pulley can be used if you machine the mounting face on most new dampers back to align the belt and drill the pulley for four holes instead of three. A new Ford crate engine front damper is hard to convert to a “V” belt pulley so you will need to replace it.

      The 302 probably has four exhaust gas recirclation ports in the heads. They must be plugged. You can buy special Ford plugs.One of those ports on the right side head becomes the pivot bolt for the alternator/generator adjustment arm.

      If you are using rocker covers from your 289 you my have an interference with the end rocker arms. You may be able to fix the problem by using two gaskets. Check this out before you install the engine. The later covers have more room.

      Assuming you want to stick with the Ford four speed top loader, you will have replace the clutch housing with a six bolt housing and use the Mark II slave cylinder, unless you want to use a hydraulic throw out bearing. Replace the clutch, the throwout bearing, install a roller pilot bearing with the right diameter and a new pressure plate.

      If you plan on using the same distributor you must replace the drive gear with the one recommended by Ford in their racing catalog or you will destroy the cam shaft. They are identified with an orange paint. One of them fits the shaft of the older distributor.

      You may use the intake and carburetor of the 289 but you would save some weight with a good aluminum one. Don’t get one that is too high or you will have to cut a hole in the hood. The Edelbrock Performer 2121 works if you use a minimum of carburetor spacers. If you happen to use aluminum heads, lift the powertrain by the exhaust mounting surfaces, not the carburetor mounting surface. Your carburetor should be 600 cfm or less.

      Use your 289 oil pan and oil pick-up tube to the oil pump. Put the dipstick in the 289 front cover and plug the dipstick hole in the side left side of the block. It’s best to tap the hole with a 1/8 inch pipe tap with the pan off so you can catch the iron chips.

      You will have to re-plumb your heater, find a place for the stock temperature pick up, transfer the oil pressure pick up and other small things like that. Everything else, such as the engine mounts , exhaust manifolds etc. will bolt right on.

    • #60591
      quote :

      Newer, 302 engines, since 1968 I believe, require a flywheel and front damper for a 50 ounce out of balance so don’t use your 289 flywheel or front damper!

      The “302” engine was produced until and including 1978, and has 28 oz-in imbalance, same as the 289 and 260. The “5.0” engine was produced from 1979 to 1993 and has 50 oz-in imbalance, which requires a matching flywheel and harmonic damper. Professional Products make dampers that have the correct length (3.0 inches) and both 3 and 4 bolt pulley patterns, so you can bolt on the stock pulley if you want.

      The 5.0 became available with roller camshaft in Mustang applications after 1986 (I think). This roller cam is made of steel and therefore requires the matching steel distributor gear. Non-roller camshafts can use the standard cast iron distributor gear.


Viewing 8 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.