Jim,
If you decide to have a go at rebuilding your clutch master and slave cylinders, or brake master cylinder, I just wanted to pass along a thought or two.
First an apology if this is already covered in the Survivor Manual, section K. I took a quick look anyway and did not see it. Or perhaps it is already stuff you know.
The standard issue masters and slave cylinder bores do not have any sort of special wear resistant or separately serviceable liners. The bores are the same soft aluminum as the rest of the part. When you get one of these apart and the seals out, likely you will see that the bores have a shiny glaze to them. This is from the plunger seals polishing the soft aluminum as they have moved back and forth over time. Unfortunately, that slick shiny surface makes it harder to seal the fluid inside the bores as the plunger moves, and seals deteriorate over time. The result is leaks. When doing a seal replacement you want to break-up that glaze.
Unfortunately that soft aluminum will just tear up if you use a regular stone honing device. Assuming you could get one small enough to fit. The solution I have used is to find a wooden dowel rod a little smaller than the bore. Then roll a bit of very fine emery cloth around the tip and gently work it into and around the bore. Do not use sandpaper. Emery cloth grit will break down as you use it. Sand paper grit will not, and thus you run the risk of leaving particles of abrasive grit embedded in the soft aluminum bore. Not good. Obviously you want to flush and clean diligently multiple times after doing this de-glazing.
If the bores are scored badly you are looking at either having them sleeved with brass or stainless steel (good idea for the future) or getting new parts entirely.
For what any of that may be worth, in case any of it is news to you.
Gene